| Coffee bulletin February 2003 Volume 8 - Number 2 |
1| Mexico - some cupping:
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Mexican coffee originates from
South-central to Southern regions of the country. For that reason, coffees
from Coatepec and Veracruz are much different from Oaxacan Plumas, which are
in turn much different from the Southernmost region of Chiapas. The later is
a growing region bordering the Guatemalan growing area of Huehuetenango, and
you will find similarities between those coffees. In general you can expect
a light-bodied coffee, mild but with delicate flavors ...But there are
exceptions of course. Mexican is one of the largest producers of certified
organic coffees, and because of the US close proximity, we receive the bulk
of fine Mexican coffees in this market. Mexican coffees are worth exploring
for the variety of cup characteristics they present, and their great price! Mexicans are moderately priced, lighter bodied, and wide-ranging in their cup character. For this reason, you need to explore coffee selections from each of the regions to get a good sense of the possibilities of Mexican coffee. Unfortunately, I rarely approve of the cup quality of coffees from Coatepec and Atoyac, and have never carried a Veracruz. Most of the impressive coffees I find are from Oaxaca and Chiapas. It may seen to fly in the face of espresso-blending laws, but try an espresso made with 100% Oaxaca coffee, such as the Becafisa Tres Flechas, Loxicha, or El Olivo ...it is excellent roasted just a bit into 2nd crack. |
| Mexican Chiapas Strictly Altura | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | SHG | Region: | Chiapas | Mark: | Co-op de Profesor Montana |
| Processing: | Wet processed | Crop: | 02 | Appearance: | 0 d/300gr, 17 Screen | Varietal: | Typica, Caturra |
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3.0 | Notes: Chiapas is the southern state in Mexico, at the Guatemalan border. The coffees are distinct from the Oaxaca Plumas and Coatepec coffees: they are a little brighter, sweeter, and bear resemblence to the Huehuetenango coffees of Guatemala. Many of the coffees from Chiapas are cooperatively wet-milled and sold. The names of co-ops are quite elaborate: this coffee is "Union de Ejidos Profesor Otilio Montana" and has the environmental mission printed on each bag: "Por la Conservacion de Tierra, La Naturaleza, Y la Cultura." In my memory, this coffee is unique and cups a little more like the coffees of Segovia, Nicaragua. It has a sage-like herbiness in the cup making it have herbal tea qualities. It develops a nice pungency as the roast turns darker, but you lose the delicate bright snap that is in this cup, hinting at the high altitude at which it is grown (Strictly Altura, top grade high grown). | |||||
| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 3.0 | ||||||
| Brightness - Acidity (1-10) | 7.5 | ||||||
| Flavor - Depth (1-10) | 8.0 | ||||||
| Body - Movement (1-5) | 3.0 | ||||||
| Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) | 7.0 | ||||||
| Cupper's Correction (1-5) | 2.0 | Roast: City roast: You can take it darker to Full City (at second crack) or Vienna (30 seconds into 2nd crack or so), but the brighter notes and delicate flavors disappear. | |||||
| add 50 | 50 | Compare to: Interesting and unique sage flavors at City roast, mild sweetness, more like Nicaraguan Segovia | |||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 83.5 | ||||||
| Mexican Oaxaca Pluma -Fino Rojas | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | HG | Region: | Oaxaca | Mark: | Fino Rojas |
| Processing: | Wet Process | Crop: | 2002 | Appearance: | .5 d/300gr, 16-17 Screen | Varietal: | Typica, Caturra |
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3 | Notes: Fino Rojas is a unique Mexican coffee both for its quality and origin. It is sold under the Fino Rojas name because it is the highest quality coffee offered by an elderly Mexican grower and mill owner who, in defiance of modern coffee practices, only sells his coffee from available lots. In other words, he never makes contracts on coffee yet-to-be-produced or deals in futures ...Much like a consumer who shuns credit for cash. His well-established name allows this. While he sells coffee processed at his mill grown on surrounding farms, the Fino Rojas mark on the bag is coffee grown on his Estate and processed in his mill. We haven't bought this coffee since the 1999 crop year; there have been general quality problems with the Oaxaca Plumas the last 2 years and even the top-rated Fino Rojas was down a notch. And even the early samples from this season were so-so. But this late crop sample was really impressive, with brightness, balance and a little bite too. I especially like this coffee roasted a bit slower, as in the Alpenrost or the Caffe Rosto. It makes a great straight espresso when roasted to a light Vienna and rested 48 hours after the roast. | |||||
| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 3 | ||||||
| Brightness - Acidity (1-10) | 8 | ||||||
| Flavor - Depth (1-10) | 8.5 | ||||||
| Body - Movement (1-5) | 2.5 | ||||||
| Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) | 8 | ||||||
| Cupper's Correction (1-5) | 1 | Roast: Full City to Vienna: the pungent roast flavors are really nice and the brightness in the cup seems to hang on through the Full City+ stage. | |||||
| add 50 | 50 | Compare to: Balanced mild coffee, with a bit of pleasant bite. Frankly, its not that unlike some Hawaiian coffees. | |||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 84 | ||||||
| Mexican SHG Organic/FT Loxicha | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | SHG | Region: | Loxicha, Oaxaca | Mark: | San Augustin, CEPCO Co-op |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | 2001 | Appearance: | .5 d/300gr, 17-18 Screen | Varietal: | Typica |
| Dry Fragrance (1-5) | 3.0 | Notes: It is more difficult to find really good Oaxacan Pluma this year. We were lucky with the El Olivo, but our traditional source (San Pablo Tres Flechas) did not come in at the expected quality. So it was a relief to get the pre-shipment samples of our other best source from the Oaxacan micro-region of Loxicha in San Augustin. This is a co-operatively grown coffee from the Cepco organization, and is Organic and Fair Trade Certified. It is rated as SHG: Strictly High Grown (top grade for altitude). It is a medium-bodied coffee with great milk chocolate and almond flavors. The more roast you expose it to, the more the chocolate flavors turn bittersweet and pungent. A moderate acidity balances out the cup and the finish is attractively aggressive(Full City Roast) and chocolate with a little tangy carbony flavor. It also happens to be great as espresso too ...surprising since this is a wet-processed coffee! As a traditional organic growth, the coffee has a bit less uniformity green with an occasional odd seed, but this will not affect roast quality. | |||||
| Wet Aroma (1-5) | 4.0 | ||||||
| Brightness - Acidity (1-10) | 7.0 | ||||||
| Flavor - Depth (1-10) | 8.0 | ||||||
| Body - Movement (1-5) | 3.0 | ||||||
| Finish - Aftertaste (1-10) | 8.0 | ||||||
| Cupper's Correction (1-5) | 1.0 | Roast: This coffee has a wide latitude of roasts …its great at City, Full City or Vienna. But the chocolate flavors really develop at Full City, where the coffee has maximum depth and complexity. | |||||
| add 50 | 50 | Compare to: The best Oaxaca Plumas and Nicaragua from the Matagalpa region. | |||||
| Score (Max. 100) | 84.0 | ||||||
| Mexican Oaxaca Pluma - Finca El Olivo | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | HG | Region: | Oaxaca | Mark: | El Olivo Farm |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | 2002 | Appearance: | .5 d/300gr, 16/17 Screen | Varietal: | Typica |
| Dry Fragrance: | 82 | Notes: Oaxaca Pluma are the prototypical Mexican coffees in my book, better than the Coatepec coffees to the North. They have great balance, medium-light body, and wonderful flavor from the moderate acidity through to the aftertaste. The El Olivo is a true Pluma estate coffee and this year that in itself is remarkable (we have reports of many coffees sold as Plumas that are not, and from "eye-cupping" some pre-ship samples at a brokers sample room, I must say these so-called Plumas do not have the appearance or quality preparation of a true Oaxacan. We do not expect to stock the Fino Rojas or other San Pablos this year based on these pre-ship samples). The El Olivo coffee is beautifully prepared, almost blue-green in color, with only an occasional abberation. The roast is very even and it accepts a wide lattitude in terms of degree of roast to suit your taste. It has above average acidity for a Mexican coffee. It's both exceptional as a straight roast and as a blend base for light and dark roasts. Great espresso potential too. | |||||
| Wet Aroma: | 82 | ||||||
| Brightness- Liveliness: | 84 | ||||||
| Body- Movement: | 82 | ||||||
| Flavor- Depth: | 86 | Roast: City Roast: This coffee has great balance in the light roasts, but also offers a wide lattitude of great roast results. If you like it darker go ahead and try a Full City or Vienna roast. I have tried this coffee as espresso too and it is excellent. | |||||
| Finish- Conclusion: | 85 | ||||||
| Score: | 83.2 | Compare to: Premium Oaxaca Plumas, on par with Fino Rojas when it was in its prime , or the best San Pablo coffees from '00 crop | |||||
| Mexican Natural Decaf, Cepco Co-op | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | HG | Region: | Putla - Mixteca | Mark: | CEPCO |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | 00/01 | Appearance: | 0 d/300gr, 16-18 Screen | Varietal: | |
| Dry Fragrance: | 82 | Notes: This new lot of Mexican Natural Decaf originates with a slightly higher quality coffee than the Esmeralda decaf. Cepco is the Mexican farmer cooperative that produces some of our best Mexican coffees, like the excellent San Augustin Loxicha coffee. This coffees has a very distinct, attractive aroma while it roasts and the cup is mild and has a very pleasant nuttiness. It has medium body and a light aftertaste. Because it is nutty and mild, its great as a crowd-pleasing straight roast or as a base for a decaf blend, either for drip coffee or espresso. Cup quality rates a tad better than Esmeralda but it is very much "cut from the same cloth" and I think the difference between them is more academic in terms of character. But I like the fact this is a co-op coffee, is the same price as Esmeralda, decaffeinated in the same place (Cafiver) and it benefits the farmers to a greater degree. Check out our article on decaffeination. ...or some information from Cafiver in Mexico. | |||||
| Wet Aroma: | 81 | ||||||
| Brightness- Liveliness: | 83 | ||||||
| Body- Movement: | 84 | ||||||
| Flavor- Depth: | 84 | Roast: This coffee has a very wide lattitude ...roast you your preference: City, Full City, Vienna or French | |||||
| Finish- Conclusion: | 81 | ||||||
| Score: | 82.5 | Compare to: Mild, balanced Mexican Oaxaca coffees | |||||
| Mexican Organic/ FT Chiapas SWP Decaf | |||||||
| Country: | Mexico | Grade: | Altura EP | Region: | Chiapas | Mark: | Organic, Fair Trade Certified |
| Processing: | Wet-processed | Crop: | 00/01 | Appearance: | 0 d/300gr, 16 screen | Varietal: | Bourbon, Caturra |
| Dry Fragrance: | 82 | Notes: I realize many customers want to buy only the Swiss Water Process decafs but these present a special challenge to a cupper. The SWP process really takes its toll on the cup quality of the coffee and it is entirely probable to send a very good coffee to the decaffeinator, and end up with swill, So when I find a nice SWP decaf, I buy! That was the case with this Organic, Fair Trade certified one. It has a nice light body and a sweet, simple cup character with that nice slightly floral acidity you find in good coffee from Chiapas. I am not promising fireworks in this cup! But if you want to enjoy a mild, light-bodied decaf with nice balance and flavor, this might be a welcome respit from the Ethiopian Harars and Kenya Estate coffees of the world... | |||||
| Wet Aroma: | 80 | ||||||
| Brightness- Liveliness: | 82 | ||||||
| Body- Movement: | 80 | ||||||
| Flavor- Depth: | 84 | Roast: A lighter City roast preserves the brightness in the cup. See our notes on roasting decafs, especially the dark-colored Swiss Water ones! | |||||
| Finish- Conclusion: | 81 | ||||||
| Score: | 82.2 | Compare to: Nice, simple sweet Central American coffee! | |||||
| Mexican HG San Pablo -Becafisa | |||||||
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82/82
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84
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82
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83
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84
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82.8
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2| A just coffee
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![]() Through the A Just Coffee campaign, Équiterre works to develop fair trade, using coffee as an example of the concept. A team of volunteers and employees organize a variety of public-information activities and encourage business owners to make fair trade coffee more accessible. Équiterre promotes fair trade in order to support the efforts of families trying to improve their lives while also caring for the environment.
Look for the certified fair trade label...
TransFair Canada is one organization that certifies that the coffee bearing its logo meets fair trade criteria, which are as follows:
Taking control of their development More than 300 coffee cooperatives in 18 countries benefit from fair trade. Among these is the Mexican Union de Communidades Indigenas de la Region del Istmo (UCIRI), which represents more than 2,000 families spread out over 51 communities. By unifying their efforts, these peasants have become independent of the local intermediary who previously controlled their exports. They have built an organic-agriculture school, started health projects, and set up a transportation cooperative, a community loan system, and a number of other community-based projects. UCIRI's members practise organic agriculture in order to care for the land that will provide for future generations.
Équiterre's A Just Coffee project has been made possible thanks to the support of the Canadian International Development Agency (CIDA), Oxfam-Québec, the Fonds de lutte contre la pauvreté, and the involvement of more than a hundred volunteers from the Public Interest Research Groups (PIRGs) of McGill, UQAM, and Concordia universities, as well as from a number of colleges and secondary schools. |
MEXICO CITY - Tens of thousands of farmers thronged the streets of Mexico City's major boulevard Friday, riding atop horses and tractors, leading burros and waving large banners to demand greater protection against U.S. imports under the North American Free Trade Agreement. "The central objective is to show the nation that there is great discontent in the countryside that cannot be hidden," said Victor Suarez, one of the protest leaders. At least 25 farm groups in three large coalitions were organizing the demonstrations Friday, which also were backed by several environmental groups, opposition political parties, and major labor unions.
Local newspapers and radio stations warned motorists in the Mexican capital to avoid the march route, which spanned the city's wide historic boulevard, the Paseo de la Reforma, from the independence monument to the city's central plaza, known as the zocalo. Reforma became a sea of straw hats late Friday as weathered men in boots and jeans gathered in the street alongside tractors, harvesters and the buses that had carried them to Mexico City from various parts of the country. Organizers said 30,000 demonstrators participated in the march; police put attendance at about half that. "Today the entire farm movement is marching under a single banner: re-negotiation of the farm chapter (of NAFTA), a new farm policy and a new deal for the countryside," said Suarez, of the coalition known as The Countryside Can't Stand More. The farmers began intensifying their protests against NAFTA and against dire poverty in the countryside late last year, blockading highways and briefly threatening to close the U.S.-Mexico border on Jan. 1, the day remaining tariffs on many U.S. farm products were removed. "With the free-trade treaty, our products automatically are worth nothing because the neighboring country (the United States) sells more cheaply," said Teodulo Ortega Delgado, 53, a corn and sugar farmer from the western state of Nayarit. "We are the motor of the country and they don't help us enough," Ortega said. "We are like cars: If a car breaks and you don't fix it, well, it doesn't work."
President Vicente Fox, an enthusiastic supporter of free trade, had promised an extensive dialogue with farm groups aimed at reaching a national accord to help farmers modernize and become more competitive. But the coalitions were angered when Fox's aides this week announced hearings on farm issues that seemed to leave control firmly in the hands of Cabinet secretaries. One of the burros that ambled down Reforma had "Fox" painted in bright white letters on its side. In what seemed to be a related development, the government said Friday it was barring imports of beans from the United States and Canada for an indefinite period, alleging that products from outside the NAFTA area have been slipped in unfairly. Last week, the government imposed restrictions on U.S. chicken, citing health concerns.
Mexican exports of farm products to the United States rose to $US6.2 billion in 2001 from $US3.2 billion in 1993. But imports of U.S. farm goods to Mexico also have skyrocketed. Farm groups allege that massive subsidies, cheap credit, better transportation and technology give U.S. farmers an unfair advantage. They also complain that the main beneficiaries of the rising Mexican exports have been large, corporate farms rather than the small-plot farms on which millions of Mexicans still live. "We want the government to pay attention to the little farmers, not just the large landowners," said Jesus Celis, 70, a nut farmer in northern Chihuahua state. Last month, the U.S. Embassy in Mexico issued a statement rebutting the farmers' claims, saying that many of the problems affecting Mexican farmers existed before NAFTA, including high production costs, poor technology and difficulty accessing affordable credit.
Opposition parties, labor unions and non-governmental organizations lent their support to the march. Large balloons bearing the Greenpeace slogan and a wide banner with the initials of the Zapatista National Liberation Army of Chiapas were seen near the central Independence Angel monument, where protesting farmers planted large stalks of corn in plots of earth.
4| Profile of sustainable agriculture - the key to Finca Santa Elena's future is found in the past
During World War I, when his aristocratic family lost their property, Johann Bernstorff set sail from Germany, arriving in Mexico in the midst of the country's revolution. With no knowledge of Spanish and very little money, he sought work as a field hand on a coffee farm. While it didn't take long before he had saved enough to move on, his love for a local woman named Carmen Pérez kept him in Chiapas. The two soon married, and he continued to work diligently for local coffee farms, until in 1941, he became the owner of 3,800-hectare (9386-acre) estate where he produced coffee, African palm, cacao and timber.
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Several years later he bequeathed part of his holdings -- along with his devotion to the land and its people -- to his son Everardo. Today, Everardo Bernstorff is committed to operating Santa Elena as a profitable and socially responsible organic shade coffee farm that conserves and protects biodiversity. The 267-hectare (660-acre) finca offers living proof that it is possible and profitable to run a business that preserves nature and provides jobs and decent working conditions for local people.
Creating a Sustainable Coffee Farm
Finca Santa Elena is nestled in the verdant hills of the Sierra Madre de Chiapas that rise from the hot, fertile coastal Soconusco Plain of southern Mexico. These slopes are blessed with the richest soil in all of Mexico, making agriculture, especially coffee, the region's primary industry.
With great fondness, Everardo Bernstorff recalls playing in the lush, Chiapas forests as a boy. He remembers picking papayas, avocados and bananas from the trees that thrived on the family farm and being awed by the colorful plumage of the orange-breasted titryas and other resident birds that lived there. He remembers the thrill that he experienced each rainy season, with the arrival of the migratory songbirds from the North. As a result of the swelling human population and the so-called "technified" methods of coffee cultivation developed during the 1970s, which involves the felling of large swaths of forest, these songbirds have been rapidly losing their winter habitat.
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Committed to protecting the flora and fauna he had grown to love, Bernstorff converted his farm into a completely organic operation in 1996. Three years later Santa Elena became the first coffee farm in Mexico to earn the Rainforest Alliance's certification seal for complying with a rigorous set of standards that go way beyond organic to include protecting the environment as well as supporting the rights and social conditions of workers and the local community.
"I was worried that when it came time for me to pass Santa Elena on to my children, it would be less productive than it was when I first began here. And if my grandson, Felipe, wanted to take it over in the future, why by that time the soil might not be able to grow much of anything anymore," says Bernstorff. Rainforest Alliance standards were developed by the Sustainable Agriculture Network (SAN), a coalition of conservation groups coordinated by the New York-based nonprofit. A sustainable farm is managed with an eye toward the future. Crops -- in this case coffee -- are cultivated so as to maintain the health and productivity of the natural environment.
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In Johann Bernstorff's day, all coffee fincas were sustainably managed. Coffee trees were sheltered beneath a variety of taller trees, which not only provided shade but also contributed to the leaf litter and other organic debris that increases the nutrient levels in the soil and staves off erosion. These canopy trees provide habitat to a wide range of organisms that increase the farm's overall biodiversity as well as provide goods for local consumption, such as fruit for the farm workers. Finally, because shade-grown beans are allowed to ripen slowly, and only the most mature specimens are selected for processing, the coffee has a richer flavor.
To ensure that farms are complying with the SAN criteria, the Rainforest Alliance and its partners send out field specialists who work with farmers to ensure that their operations:
The Benefits of Certification
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Bernstorff's commitment to growing his beans beneath the lush forest canopy is contrary to the prevailing trend in Latin America, where the development of low-quality industrial coffee has glutted the market, driven prices down and forced thousands of small producers off their farms toward urban areas and to the North. Because of its short-term profitability, farmers are turning to the environmentally deleterious methods of cultivation.
While high-quality premium coffee costs more, Bernstorff has found that consumers are willing to spend more, knowing that their cup of coffee has not been brewed from beans grown to the detriment of the region's biodiversity, sprayed with pesticides or harvested by underpaid workers. Rainforest Alliance certification is a tool that gives consumers a choice and ensures them that there are buying environmentally and socially friendly coffee.
Says Bernstorff, "I believe that the future of the coffee industry, not just here but around the world, lies in producing a quality product rather than a basic commodity. Only traditional methods, like those we have adopted here, will sustain this in the long run. Our vision, our beliefs, our whole way of life depends on it."
Don't drink coffee, but want to support the Rainforest Alliance? Become a member today!
5| Offers:
Caravan Trade is member of the Québec
Association of Export Trading Houses (AMCEQ).
For more information please contact
Caravan Trade:
116 West service road, pmb 358
Champlain, New York
12919
USA
Tel:
514-387-9009
Toll Free: 1-877-387-9009
Fax:
514-387-5480
ICQ Number :
2223426755
E-mail: kmd@caravantrade.biz
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